Day 38 Saturday 26^th June:

18.6 degrees C this morning – must be in for another hot day. Egg’s and bacon for breakfast. Walk to the Chateau de Azay Le Rideau but came across the town market, bought some fruit. Then off to the chateau – very picturesque. Needed to be away so we set TT for Langeais to view a second recommended chateau. Chateua Langeais was in the centre of the village, providing a very impressive setting for the village. Had a coffee before moving on to Villandry – a few kms down the road.

Lunch just outside the chateau grounds in Villandry in the shade of some beautiful elms. After lunch we took a visit to the chateau – it came highly recommended by a French couple – and it didn’t disappoint. Where we had become a little de-sensitised by chateaus, walled-cities, medieval town and churches etc; this cut through all that. It was stunning by all standards. Perhaps we will be reluctant to go through other chateaus in the future because of Chateau Villandry ... but we are heading for Ambois and Chenconeau ... Villandry was visually stunning The desighn of the chateau and gardens is perhaps the best that had been achieved over the centuries. From every angle, inside and outside, your senses were challenged by the design – lettuces inside box-hedge – but it works.

It was approaching 4 pm so we left for a few Kms up the Loire for our Aire – a beautiful spot under the shade of large elm trees .

Day 37 Friday 25^th June:

Pinching ourselves – another beautiful day promising. The French Aires de camping are areas set aside for mobile homes by towns across France. Some Aires only cater for six or so van, while others will take many more. Some of the locations are stunning eg on the banks of rivers, overlooking chateaus; others though can be quite ordinary, in the middle of a town with trucks thundering past at night! But you quickly learn to be selective. All these locations have facilities to take on drinking water, empty grey-water and loos, plus rubbish bins. Some you may have to pay 2 Euros for 100l of water while others it is free.

In more popular locations eg in Azay Le Rideau, the 4.00 pm rule applies ie you need to be looking for an Aire at this time otherwise you may have to look at the next one along the way. By arriving around 4 pm allows you to relax – even more, read, write a blog! eat and drink, and then in the cool of the evening you have the opportunity to explore the village in the quite time of the day.

More countries ought to take a leaf out of the French book on hospitality.

Back to the story of the day! Left for Chinon and finally arrived by mid-morning and gained a great parking spot under trees by the river next to the Place de Jean d’Arc. From here we explored the town for the rest of the day before heading for Azay Le Rideau by 4.00pm. Chinon was the preferred residence of the early Plantagenet kings, Henry II etc, so a medieval village developed around the chateau. This town remained intact until the present day after falling into disrepair after 15^th century. Very picturesque! Left for Azay le Rideau.

We parked next to a Welsh couple – “You’ve got a Welsh born PM”, were his words of greeting. They live in France and were able to give us much valuable information. They had sat-TV and Lytton Hewitt was on the verge of winning his third round match at Wimbledon – but did the Cats win last night against St Kilda.

Very hot afternoon, did the washing , had a wine, dinner, and then went for a walk and a beer in Azay Le Rideau. Back to the van by 11.00 just as the night sky was darkening.

Day 36 Thursday 24^th June

“Julia is the new PM” -so a text from Maddie announces – she sounded excited being the first female PM of Australia. All this as we head-off for another beautiful day exploring the Loire valley. Drove to Saumur to Skype maddie. Got all the “goss” on what was happening at home, as well as email etc. Shopping day too – need to replenish supplies.

In the afternoon we followed the Loire to a small village of Turquaint. Turquaint has many troglodyte homes built into rocks with extemsions built outside the cliff face. Turguaint is about 20km away from Chinon, where we were heading three days ago!,

We have started to settle into a pattern where we find an Aire soon after 4.00pm have a read and a drink, cook dinner, claen-up and then explore the village for a few hours in the cool of the evening. Turquaint is partially made up of houses that emerge from the limestone cliff. Quaint little alley-ways and an old 13^th century church.

Thirteen vans took advantage of this great Aire. France, you have done it again!

Day 35 Wednesday 23^rd June

Woke to a beautiful sunny morning by the Loire. Showered, ate and were ready for the day. A little Frenchman came ‘round selling veggies etc. We mad a last minute decision to go to the Troglodyte area of the Loire. First stop was Deneze –sans- Doue to view the Cave Sculptures from the 13^th and 14^th century – Protestant v Catholics - but both carved the satirical sculptures for their common use as a church. This was very dangerous for them if they had have been caught.

We then visited the village of Forges for the troglodyte underground village. Very extensive systems of dugout rooms underground where families lived . If they couldn’t afford to build then it was very cheap to dig the soft limestone and create their home and village underground. If a new bay arrived then they would just dig another room. Had lunch with David and Sue.

To continue with the Troglodyte theme, in the afternoon we visited an ancient farm and Troglodyte dwellings at Rochemenier. This very extensive complex of underground homes and farmyards have been in existence since the 13^th century. By 4.00 pm we had nearly been “trogged out”!

At this stage we set TT for the Aire in Montreuil-Ballay and he led us to an Aire next to a river with a beautiful chateau towering over the cliff behind us. What an absolute picture!

Had dinner by 8.30 pm and then walked the old town until 10.30pm. (Australia had just won the soccer – so a local told us!) back to the van where six other vanners were enjoying this very special place.

Day 34 Tuesday 22^nd June

When we woke this morning we immediately thought that we were in the wrong place!! The folks seemed friendly but it appeared to be a gypsy camp – central community tent, music ove a PA and everyone seeming to know one another except us, and also knowing that we had drifted into a place that they we knew we ought not be in! No problems though, but we moved off calmly but without wasting much time.

We returned to the parking area in Angers to have breakfast and continue our exploration of the city. We wandered over the road to the 12th century St Jean Hospital to view Jean Lurcat and Contemporary Tapestry Museum. We marvelled at the size of each tapestry and the themes. An interesting take of the French! The 17^th century orphanage housed the Contempoary tapestry Museum. The use these old buildings are being put to is fantastic without changing the integrity of the buildings.

Caught “our” Petit Train back across the Maine River to spend the rest of the day at the magnificent Chateau and the viewing of the very famous 14^th century tapestry of the Apocalypses – this set of tapestries are considered national treasures in France. Also, fascinated by the “hanging gardens” on top of the ramparts growing 14^th century plants that are

depicted in the tapestry. (Someone gathered a few herbs for the evening meal from this garden!!!!) Louis, eat your heart out!

Returned to the van , had a very late lunch and then headed to the Loire in the direction of Saumur, stopping at an Aire at Canault. We travelled next to the Loire for 40 Km – very scenic villages dotted along the river. Stopped by 5.00 pm – has to be a first!

Met an English couple, Sue and David, from Birmingham, at Canault. Went for a drink but the bar was closing as we walked in! So we continued to walk the village and came across the large village church where the light through the windows above the front door shone directly on the altar at 8.00 on June 21^st – it was shortly after 8 on the 22^nd June and we could see the lighting effect it had. Looked at a few rock houses and then returned to the van for the night.

Day 33 Monday 21^st June

We were woken at 12.15 am with a call from Jim at JFK Airport on his way back to the Uk. We wished him a happy birthday as he mentioned his trip to the US went well.

The night was full of broken sleeps; at about 3.00am the tow-truck man opposite had a call-out and he didn’t leave quietly. The car he returned with appeared to be a complete write-off. The bigger rigs started rolling passed at the wee early hours – all in all, a very noisy stopover! But whose complaining!

Left la Guerche and stopped at Caron, market day – took a look around the market, had a coffee, phoned Jim and then left for Angers. The day was beginning to show some true summer potential.

Driving into Angers we were surprised by the sudden appearance of the imposing ramparts and towers of the Chateau and the walled city. We parked close by, had lunch and decided to stay for the next couple of days. We purchased a “24-hour Pass” and then proceeded to explore this charming city by visiting the Fine Arts Museum, the 12^th century cathedral , the medieval town-house, Maison d’Adams and the road-train tour of the city.

Day 32 Sunday 20^th June:

Woke to a beautiful sunny Sunday - sun streaming in as Helene slept on! Cleaned and tidied the van, and took water on board. Spoke to Maddie on Skype - she looked to be having a lovely dinner in Melbourne. Checked email and then left for Rennes.

Arrived for lunch, parking in a great location in the centre of the old town – great to have our own cafe in the best real-estate wherever we go!

Interesting to note the old market town square has been emasculated by two gross buildings plonked in the middle – obviously for undercover markets. Even the French get wrong at times! We checked out the old quarters – timber framed houses with many locals enjoying the ambience of the place.

Because we were heading towards Tours, we asked TT to find us an Aire on the way – viola! He leads us to a small market town (they are all old market towns!) of La Guerche de Bretagne. The village has a small market square with many old timber framed buildings hanging over narrow streets. Very quaint.

The Aire is situated right in the centre of the town just a street away from the old centre. We settled down for the night with a nice French red, alongside other vanners with the same info on French Aires. It is interesting, we have not felt unsafe in any of the areas that we have stopped in France, and for that matter, the UK.

James – must not forget his birthday tomorrow!! Happy birthday Jim!

Day 31 Saturday 19^th June:

It rained over night and we woke to a bleak, overcast, drizzly morning – the sparkle had gone from the jewel! It gave us an opportunity to see a different mood of Mont St Michel. After breakfast we slowly made our way to St Malo – to seaside town to the west. The sky started to show signs of blue as we arrived at this old medieval town. Yet another walled-town with a Saturday market – more fish for tea! The locals were busily buying large live crabs – fascinating to see the variety of seafood available and the quantities being sold.

Our urgent need though was autogas (LPG) – our two cylinders were on empty. It took about an hour to find a servo that sold the gas. Much relieved because the gas drives the fridge most of the time! Twenty-four Euros for 36 kilos!

We parked the van and went into the walled-town. There were many British yachties in town for some official sail pass – at the same time Australia v Ghana in the world Cup.

Set TT for the Aire we were staying at overnight – another scenic location overlooking the Hippodrome (racecource). Read, had dinner, watched the movie "Dear John" and then to bed.

Day 30 Friday 18^th June:

Great sleep and away by 8.30 am for Mont St Michel. Caught a glimpse of the Mont as we approached through the flat farmland. The Mont absolutely dwarfs the landscape. You could imagine the pilgrims of the middle-ages being awestruck by the sight – it still has that effect today even though the image is freely available.

An area is set aside for motorhomes at the western end of the causeway – a 24-hour stay was included in the parking fee – a very good provision again by the French. We took up a spot which gave us uninterrupted view of the Mont – full view from our lounge-room window!

Packed some nibbles and lunch and headed across the causeway to “climb” the Mont. Walked the rampart wall and then took the 300 metre stairway to the monastery – a 10th, 12^th and 15^th century buildings . Everywhere you looked it was very impressive – many photos later, we returned to the van.

Spent the rest of the afternoon reading with views of the Mont across the causeway. It would take quite some time to tire of this!

After dinner we walked the Mont again – without the throngs of tourists during the day. The final special event of the day was around 11.00 pm when the sun went down and the lights of Mont St Michel illuminated its majesty. A jewel in the night!

Day 29 Thursday 17^th June

Off to the town market in Conde-sur-Noireau. The market took over the town square and the main streets – it was huge. Stocked-up with local produce - fish, veggies etc. Helene was seen eying her Little KA with a baquette under her arm!!! The town’s claim to fame is that Durmont d’Urbiville, explorer , came from here and he was the Frenchman who brought the Venus de Milo to France from the Aegean.

Stopped for a coffee at a beautiful setting of an 14^th century aristocratic house at Pantecoulant. Move onto a quite village of St Server for lunch and then drove through to Avranche in the afternoon.

This medieval town is perched on top of an escarpment with the castle, cathedral and the walled-city. Steeped in history, non more than in 1944 where it was going to be Hitler’s last chance to stop the allies advance into Normandy.

We spent a good part of the evening walking the castle walls, taking in the magnificent views towards Mont St Michel, before returning for dinner. It is still light at 10.30 pm.

We stayed in a magnificent Aire near the old town overlooking the farmland below .

Day 28 Wednesday 16^th June:

Cooler morning this morning – the heater in the van is effective and much appreciated. Left for Falaise by 8.30 am with TomTom taking through some beautiful country lanes and villages of Suisse Normandy. At times he is trying to take us through some lanes too narrow for our van, but we managed. Emailed and spoke with Maddie – we do miss her not having the more regular contact so it is exciting when we do get through.

Gathered our info on Falaise and explored the town, the castle and the centre ville. Falaise was once the stronghold on Normandy against the Vikings and, being at the crossroads of the region, against other not so friendly parties. The castle and the walled-city are perched atop of a bluff above a flat farming landscape. The first dukes of Normandy inhabited a strong fortress here before 1000AD, with William (the Conqueror) being born here in 1027, and went on to become King of England in 1066. Lunched overlooking the moat and the walled-city (ruins).

After lunch we drove to Vendeuvre to visit Chateau de Vendeuvre. A lovely setting with beautiful gardens. Helene went in for a longer visit to view the miniatures, the kitchen and the gardens. It is still in the hand of the 9^th Count of Vendeuvre. Helene was most impressed by the house , garden and the working miniatures.

Back to Falaise to walk the walls of the walled-city before heading to Conde-sur-Noireau for dinner and the evening. Another great Aire provided for travelers by the French.

Day 27 Tuesday 15^th June:

Had a very good night sleep at the Aire at Courville-sur-Eure – understandable given the way we had been pushing things over the last week. Went for an early morning walk into this fascinating French village – people going about their daily business, three or four Boulangerie & Patissiers – a wonder how each can stay in business, but the French do love their baquettes! Yes we did buy some baquettes and pastries for lunch!

Left Courville mid-morning and passed through lush farming areas on the way to Digny and Senoches where we had morning tea. Parked in the old square and the enjoyed the pastries purchased earlier. Took a look at the Chateau being renovated in the town before leaving St Evroult-Notre Dame-du Bois for lunch by the lake.

Met an Australian and Irish couple who live in Chambois. They related many stories about the town and district.After lunch we discovered the ruins of the old Benedictine Monastery and Abbey on the lake - marvellous history at every turn. Drove on to Chambois, stopped at the Polish/US/Canadian memorial in the town which is situated in front of the Norman castle – the only such twin castle to the Tower of London, and thought to be built at the same time. It was apparently fought over by many generations of Huguenots and Catholics.

Left to find the”Falaise Pocket” museum at Mont-Ormel. This is where Helene’s father fought with the 1^st Polish Armoured Division whose purpose was to stopped the German army escaping from the encirclement that had occurred by August 1944. The Poles were the key to the “corking” of the Falaise pocket, one of the fiercest battle of WW2 – often referred to as the last battle for Normandy and also the beginning of the end of the German campaign. The history of the battle was well documented at the museum – situated over the Hill 262, overlooking the battle field.

Met another couple from Melbourne who were on a finding mission for a father’s past that they were piecing together. Again, a very moving experience.

Drove to the Polish Memorial down the road and then, along very narrow roads to Vimoutier, home of Camembert, for the night – another French Aire in a great location.

Walked into town - read a plaque stating that the town was destroyed in 20 minutes by US bombing in 1944 when the Germans occupied the district – very sobering!

Home for dinner and bed.

Day 26 Monday 14^th June:

Decamped this morning heading for Chartres. Stopped at Chevreuse but only a weak signal which allowed us to check email but that’s about all.

Headed south through heavy rain to Maintenon for lunch. After lunch we took a walk around the Chateau de Mainteron. This has importance in French history as the residence of Madame de Maintenon where the liaison between her and the Sun King, Louis XIV, took place. Madame de Maintenon, “whose eternal youth seduced the all powerful monarch. As she grew in favour with the King and became his secret wife, so the chateau and the town grew in importance”.

Left Maintenon and finally arrived in Chartres - had great difficulty in finding parking around narrow streets. We finally succeeded and made our way to the perhaps the most important and impressive cathedral in France, if not in Europe.

It is listed on the World Heritage Register. The cathedral is undergoing a cleaning program and the difference is amazing – from dark brown/black stone and marble to a creamy white and glowing after the cleaning. This is what it would have looked like when first built. I climbed the 300 plus steps to the spire of the cathedral which provided a magnificent view of Chartres and the flying buttresses of the cathedral. I can understand why people marvel at this accomplishment – not having mentioned the sculptures and paintings.

Drove about 20 kms for our nights stop in Courville-sur-Eure – to an Aire listed in TomTom – for dinner and the night. It turns out to be a beautiful spot near the River Eure. We took a walk around the river and its bridges passing some great gardens. So ended another day on the road!

Travels so far ....

This is a very basic map of where we have been over the last three weeks.

Day 25 Sunday 13th June:

Sunday – market day! Up and away by 8.30 am to get the Metro to Port de Clignancourt to “attack” the market. Arrived by 9.30 am and left around 12 noon. It got better as the morning progressed – saw many that Maddie would have liked but never sure so we didn’t buy. Part of the market was really for locals- this was very interesting. The variety of fruits, fish and meats were numerous – reasonable prices too. Parts of the market were mini boot sales but only out of a suite case. Interesting the cultural mix of the area; there appeared to be a big Turkish and Armenian groups. A strong police presence was obvious – seemed strange for a Sunday morning.

Returned to the Jardin de Tuilieres for lunch by the pool – along with hundreds of other Parisians and tourists. Met some other Aussies for a while before I headed off to the Louvre and Helene went to check out t l’ Opera and Place de la Madeleine and some of the Parisian shops.

The Louvre was magnificent, I had forgotten how vast it was. I headed straight to Michangelo’s “Slaves” then proceeded to pace myself across the three levels – final stopping point was to the Mona Lisa but more interested in the throngs of people milling around it. The Venus de Milo is still the outstanding attraction in my view – and without breast enhancement!

Met Helene back in the gardens before heading back to base for dinner and the evening.

Day 24 Saturday 12^th June:

Woke early and off to Paris by 7.30 am. Drove on non-toll roads for most of the way – a great way to see the country-side which again was spectacular. Very rich soil and fully supporting heavy cropping. This extended as far as the eye could see.

Arrived in Paris at 9.30 am but it took TomTom three goes to cross the Seine River to the campsite! Eventually we arrived at the Bois de Boulogne campground where they had vacancies (when we phoned they put us on a “round-about”).

Decided to venture into Paris in the PM, re-engaged with the Metro after 29 years, arriving at the Musee d’Orsay for a good three-hours visit to the Impressionist paintings and sculptures. On show was a specials exhibition on “mort” which was a gruesome depiction through art by the French of death. All in all a very worthwhile visit, the paintings now being housed in the old d’Orsay railway station. Huge crowds and it was only early in the tourist season. Came away quite exhilarated but felt the old Je de Paume Museum had a better setting for the paintings.

We were getting tired at this stage so we sat around the left bank for a while before walking across the bridge to the Jardin des Tuileries, and then decided, after many beggars approaches, to return to the Bois de Boulonge Camping.

Did washing, had dinner then went to the bar to get a fix of footy via the England v USA world cup. A Brit neighbour offered some interesting insights into the team – especially after US got the equaliser! Back to van, bed and sleep. Who said life was meant to be tough!

Day 23 Friday 11^th June:

Rained over night and another misty morning. Walked Hill 60 again – very thought provoking.

After breakfast we left for Meteren just over the border in France – my grandfather’s, William Samuel Sayer, final resting place. TomTom took us over Mont Noir, a resort with chair lifts etc. Parked in the central square/market place and walked to the Commonwealth War Cemetery. Mixed feelings as we approached. Found the WW1 graves in the lower part of the town’s cemetery. Took a while to locate William Samuel Sayer’s grave, situated on the right-hand-side half-way down. This is where the grandfather I never knew was finally laid to rest – killed in combat on 23^rd April 1918 – a world away from his home in Wynyard Tasmania.

Most buried here were aged between 20-26 but W.S.S was 40 – why would you go off to another war (he previously served in South Africa – twice) with a small family and at the age of 40? All so sad!

Left for Fromelles and travelled through incredible farming districts – everything imaginable growing, beans, peas, potatoes, barley, cabbages, lettuce etc – very lush growth in a very flat terrain. Fromelles sits a little higher in the landscape thus its supposed importance from a

military point of view. The battle was of no consequence in the bigger picture but 5500 Australian soldiers lost their lives in just one evening. Today the interest is in the first new Commonwealth War Cemetery in fifty years being prepared at Fromelle after the discovery of a mass burial in Pheasant Wood. DNA has been able to identify the bodies of soldiers killed in 1917, and they are now being buried in separate graves.

Time for coffee! On to Bullecourt for lunch, stopped at the Australian memorial with the “Bullecourt Digger” statue overlooking the site. Another 10,000 young Australian lost their lives here. The memorial is on the exact spot the Germans held when attacked by the Australians on the 11^th April 1917 in the snow!

Peronne next on the itinerary! The battle of Mont St Quentin is dedicated at the town boundary for a very significant victory by the Australian forces . This victory made the British High Command take notice of General John Monash’s tactic where he used artillery, tanks and infantry in new battle sequences which were later adopted as standard practice. Spent time checkin out the chateau in the centre of town and the surrounds.

Moved on to Villiers Bretenoux . A very impressive memorial sitting on high ground overlooking the rich farmland surrounding. Visited the town with the view of finding a resting place for the night. Found a quiet location a little out of town on the road to Paris.

Day 22 Thursday 10th June:

Woke, breakfasted and away by 8.00 am. Drove to Iepers in Belgium. Parked next to St Martins cCthedral and the Clothhouse. Toured the Market Square and visited the Flanders Museum. Fascinating – showed the development of the town from a medieval cloth making centre to its total destruction during the Great War (WW1). It is unmanageable how the people put it back together again.

Next stop - Passchendaele and the Tyne Cot cemetery . The Tyne Cot cemetery is the largest British Commonwealth War Graves in the world. High profiled in the info centre is the Tasmanian Victoria Cross recipient

Sgt Lewis McGee whose grave is at Tyne Cot. A very moving place – over 500,000 casualties here alone!

Tyne Cot was a bunker on the German lines in October 1917 which the Australians attacked and captured, and in doing so altered the course of the battle of Passschendaele. The cemetery is built around this bunker.

Through to Zonnebeke and back to Iepers.

Cooked dinner in time to experience the “Last Post” at Menin Gates in Iepers. This is played each night at 8.00 pm. Menin Gate memorial has the names of 54,000 young men who were reported as missing in action. We thought, being a week night, not many would attend – how wrong – there must have been over three hundred present. The Menin Gate is built at the location of an old medieval gate to the city – destroyed during WW1. A very moving place.

Back to the van and drove a few kms to the Hill 60 memorial. Took a walk around the site ( it doesn't get dark until 10.30 pm) and discovered that it has intentionally been left very much as it was left after the big explosion in 1918 – except for the regrowth of the trees shrubs and grass.

Next to the site is a railway line where a plaque tells the story of two French resistance fighters were executed by the Germans for having been caught near Lillee with a truck load of explosions. Their home village was La Madeleine!

Wherever we travelled in this area we were confronted with military cemeteries. The huge cost in life is unimaginable.

Day 21 Wednesday 9^th June:

Woke late – up by 9.00 am and showered. Skyped Maddie – she’s at home and so we spoke for a while – great to hear from her – it had been a while. Found our way to the big big “Cite Europe” shopping centre. Spent hours in here!

Visited the centre of Calais – tourist office, Casino, etc. Returned to Calais Plage for the evening, dinner and sleep.

Day 20 Tuesday 8th June:

Raining heavily this morning, but still wakened to beautiful outlook - up across a barley field towards a tree studded brow of a hill. The overcast sky and rain added to the depth of colour and texture.

A slow morning! Set TT for Dover (spotted a good camping spot at Moorhead near Oxted). Drove to Folkstone and checked mail and spoke to Maddie. Still showers on the Kent coast as we drove to the White Cliffs for lunch – passed Dover castle and the hill overlooking the port. Spent the afternoon walking the Cliffs and practising our Spanish siestas! The Cliffs were a little disappointing after the Seven Sisters at Seaford.

Down to the waterfront to cook dinner and then boarded the ferry at 9.30 pm. We travelled on P&O’s “The Pride of Canterbury” - not a lot to be proud of! Arrived in France at 11.55 pm.

Drove to the Aire at La Plage Calais beachfront. In bed by 12.30 am. About 20 other vanners were there – the French certainly are welcoming to vanners, a complete contrast to the UK attitude.

Day 19 Monday 7th June:

Awake before 5.00 am and left Fann St by 4.50 am to beat the London traffic. Drove to Bessel Green for breakfast before heading for the superstore at Riverside.

Later headed for Ightham Mote. Another surprising and amazing place. This 14th century moated-manor house has been restored to the tune of 10.5 million pounds. Just outstanding - well worth the trip.

Lunch in the gardens and then returned to Sanderstead for a lovely dinner with friends, Colin and Norma and Anna. Colin had picked out a suitable location to park for the night - it was perfect. Another great day.

Day 18 Sunday 6th June:

This was suppose to be a rest day , but no, we were up at 6.45am, showered, breakfasteded, and off to London by 7.50 am. Arrived at Fann St EC2 by 9.30 am. Called Jim but still fast asleep - left it a while before we called around to rouse him. Took him a while but he sorted out the problem with TT and exchanged the computer bits and pieces to get the system working again. In the process we all had eggs and bacon, cooffee and toast.

Left Jim and Emma at 3.30 and headed into Oxford Street and Regent Street. The Taste of Spain was on in Regent Street withe whole street being closed off. Joined the crowds line up for the British TV and film awards - getting excited when they could see a soapy "star".

Had dinner in Liester Square and off to Fann St by 9.00 pm.

Day 17 Saturday 5th June:

Woke really early- breakfast at a liesurely pace after which we set off for Petworth. Arrived early in this old market town as it was slowly waking up. The sun was shining but it was still very fresh.

Parked in the town centre car parking area and had a good stroll around this quaint market town on top of the downs. Visited the 12th century church where they were setting up for the church fete - someone's eyes did light up! Three-quarters of an hour later emerged with a smile on the face and a bag of goodies. Looked at the memorial of a sad story of the children killed by a rouge bomb from a returning German bomber during the war. Thought that the Germans were trying to hit the church spire but hit the school instead.

Petworth House was next on our list. An absolute incredible collection of painting and sculptures collected over 150 years ago. Many of the famous old masters were in the collection - Titian, van Dyke, Turner, constable, Rubens, etc. Absolutely fabulous. Lunch in the park as the temperature rose to 28oC.

Drove onto Nyman's Garden for the remainder of the day. A little too tired to appreciate this creation - had been pushing it for a few days at this stage. Back to Crab Tree for the evening.

Day 16 Friday 4th June:

Awake early - as usual - breakfasted and returned to Lewes for a more thorough visit. Wandered over into High Street and pondered on the significance of the Court House, built 1081, to the Hoggett family. The Huggett brothers, John and James, were sentenced here for sheep stealing, among other things, in 1836. We are all pleased that they had a bad day back in 1836. Sentenced to death, they and we, were lucky that it was commuted to transportation for life - Van Diemen's Land here we come.

My great grandfather, John Huggett, lived the rest of his life in Tasmania. We ventured to the castle for as closer look - the atmosphere of the town seems to be created by the looming presence of the castle. Great for early morning tourists. We wandered around many of the narrow paths and lanes, bordered by 14th and 15th century houses. Quite a picture.

After this we made out way to Sheffield Park where again we were stunned by the beauty of the gardens - a capability Brown creation. Just magnificent - colurs, reflections, water, trees and plants - its has it all. Another great day!

But more to come. We still had time to take in the architectural rich and fabric design trend setter of the 1890s in Standon. Helene particularly was in awe of of the fabric desins, wallpapers and the tiles. All Morrison orginal designs which we now see in the Sanderson ranges. Headed off to Crabtree for the evening. Phewwwww!

Day 15 Thursday 3rd June:

Set directions for Alfriston - the playground of the Huggett boys in the early 1800s. TT lead us a merry dance down some hedgerows we would not have selected, but he got us there. Again, beautiful counrty side. Alfriston is set in the Cuckmore Valley in the South Downs. A delightful village with the obvious tourist interest. No reference to Huggetts, but viewed The Smugglers Inn where Stanton Collins, leader of the Alfriston Gang in the 1820s, once lived. Visited the 12th Century Clergyman's House. A lovely lunch before continuing down the valley to Seaford.

Parked at the beach next to the Martello Tower, built as a defence against Napoleon, and then explored the town. Viewed an exhibition at the old crypt and then headed for the stunning views of The Seven Sisters at Beachy Head and Birling Gap. It is said that this view is one of the outstanding views in the whole of the UK.

Left for East Chiltington for the night.