Day 66 Saturday 24^th July:

Woken at 7.20 am by a lovely phone call from Maddie – sorry text – I wasn’t quick enough out of bed to get to the “Happy birthday Daddy!” call. James called shortly afterwards from his skydiving in England. Great to hear from both of them.

We headed for the hills ! Beautiful scenery again and stopped at Ceva for lunch. We located two possible stopping sites for the evening, settling on Torrazzetta, a beautiful vineyard with a restaurant attached. We booked in for dinner which was a beautiful Italian meal.


Later we met Ziggy and Bettina, two Swiss folk, at the bar. We stayed talking and drinking until abot 1.30 am. Getting later as we get older! A lovely day!

Day 65 Friday 23^rd July:

Set TT for Nice, Menton and then Italy! First stop was at Villafranch-sur-Mar at a viewing area which offered fantastic views across Nice and the Mediterranean. Our coffee took a lot longer with this type of scenery! Nice is so heavily populated that it was not worth hanging around. We took the coastal road passing through Eze, Capd’Ail, Menton, Monaco, and then into Italy.

Market day in Ventimiglia meant we couldn’t park anywhere so we headed for our campsite at Diano Marino – this was an eye-opener with 600 motorhomes packed in. The European school and summer holiday had kicked in!

We decided to head for the hills as soon as possible. More vans were even arriving past midnight!

Day 64 Thursday 22^nd June:

What a great little alpine village is Annott. We could have stayed here for a few days but we needed to check out the wheel wobble before the weekend. So we broke camp at a leisurely rate and headed down the Var Valley towards Nice.

Outstanding scenery all the way, but when we thought we couldn’t be surprised anymore, around the bend came the delightful village of Entrevaux. What an incredible setting for a village – very strategic back in the middle-ages. It is literally the entrance to the valley – who ever controlled this village controlled the access to the valley – and to France.

At Entrevaux we also had our steering/wheel problem checked out by the garage man – thank heavens for Google translator! We pin-pointed the problem using the translator! The problem was in faulty tyres at the back. When asked what we owed him, after about an hour looking at it, he said “Nothing – I only looked!” He then organised for new tyres to be fitted at Nice.

Off to Nice, new tyres , and the night at the Aire in St Laurent–sur-Var. Speaking with a French and Belgium guy until about 11.pm.

Day 63 Wednesday 21^st July:

Breakfast with Rod and Ruth and left by 9.30-ish. We stopped at Les Mees to view the fabulous rock formations dominating the town, then on to Digne-les-Bains for lunch. This spa-town is the centre of the “Alps de Haute” region.

After checking out the locals we drove to St Andre Les Alpe and then to Annott for the evening. The scenery is spectacular now we have reached the Alps, and the village of Annott is in an equally spectacular isolated area of the mountains.

Day 62 Tuesday 20^th July:

Meeting Rod and Ruth at Saumane this morning.

Relatively early start so that we are at Saumane by 9.00am. Rod and Ruth are in the village square to meet us. It was so nice to meet up after so much travel through France. Lovely to see them, and what a lovely setting – small hill village, away from the crush in other parts of Provence, and in the midst of the lavender growing area of France.

We spent a wonderful day and evening catching up on all the news and happenings in our lives. We went to Banon in the afternoon before returning for a very pleasant evening. A very relaxing and enjoyable day.

Day 61 Monday 19^th July:

Away a bit later this morning with a day of travel ahead. Comp – Avignon, I’Isle-sur-Sorgue (for Lunch) – Apt – Cereste and then to St Michel L’Observatoire for the evening. Starting to climb into the hills of Provence at this stage.

Day 60 Sunday 18^th July:

What a great Aire – we tossed up whether to stay put here all day or go off to Nimes and Arles – but late in the morning we decided to pop across to Nimes and then down to Arles. So, off to Nimes – the old Roman village and now a major city. The Arena at Nimes is still fantastic to see. The area around the site has been upgraded dramatically since our last visit. Spent time wandering the city, had lunch and visited the old Roman baths at the Gardens.

We decided to continue on to Arles for dinner and to see the sites in the cool of the evening. - another old Roman colony of the 1^st Century BC with its 10,000 seat amphitheatre. The figure of van Gogh also hangs over the city with many of his famous painting done here. Arles is quite a dirty city on the banks of the Rhone River.

We headed back to Comp for a second night at the Aire.

Day 59 Saturday 17^th July:

The half-way point of our trip! Left Berrias for Ales. They terrain had change dramatically from this time yesterday – we were now in the dry, light coloured rock of the south of France. Olive orchards, apricots, vineyards etc. From Ales we moved on to Uzes for lunch – it was very hot, windy and dusty. Had lunch and a look then set course for Pont du Gard – wow hasn’t this changed in thirty years with both the crowds and the access so tightly controlled.

After a very hot day we looked for a good Aire and found a brilliant one at Comp on the banks of the Rhone – shade and a lovely setting – and protected from the hot mistral blowing.

Day 58 Friday 16^th July:

Stage 12 of the Tour de France! Woke to a beautiful sunrise over the valley – looking down at the creek at the bottom of the valley – it is the start of the Loire River.

Many people had arrived and were setting up chairs and umbrellas before we were even out of bed. The tour was still seven hours away!

Recreational riders have been passing all morning – doing the climb. From about 12 noon the roads were closed and only official cars could pass; this though kept the road very busy for hours. The number of people employed in one capacity or another is phenomenal. Just after 1.00 pm the “caravane” arrives – this is an assortment of sponsors cars, vans, trucks, all throwing product out to the crowds lining the road. This goes on for about 20 minutes, with people stacking their gains in little piles on the roadside.

At about 3.10 the main

show arrived .. it was all over within a few minutes. But the size of the support teams is incredible. Roads re-opened about 30 mins. That was the Tour de France. We then drove for two hours going down the Ardeche River valley - beautiful scenery all the way. Arrived at Berrias-et-Casteljau for the night – very hot again.

Day 57 Thursday 15^th July:

Woke at Coubon, alongside a much sedate Loire than we have previously seen – we are now getting closer to the origin of this great river.

Our aim today is to position ourselves for the Tour de Frnce section tomorrow. We took the road to Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille. Stopped by an old church and listened to two singers rehearsing – the acoustics and sound was incredible. The monastery was, again, perched on the rocky volcanic outcrop over looking the village. From here we drove to Le Beage – where the Tour d’F was coming through tomorrow and down the road for lunch.

After lunch we followed the Tour D F. Route to Le Lac d’Issaries. We checked into the Aire but decided to have a look at the route for tomorrow’s Tour section. As we climbed the Cote de la Mouline (D16) we saw other vans already parked along the route. We picked a spot a few kms from Le lac d’Issaries , along side the road, looking down the valley – very scenic. In doing so we have upset a local woman who claims it is private – but the fence line seems to be saying something different! .. and others thought so too!

By nightfall there were about five vans in close proximity.

Day 56 Wednesday 14^th July:

Bastille Day! Left for Brioude where we attended the Bastille Day ceremony.Interesting – very little formalities, no pomp with the local dignitries, but certainly dignity and national pride. The parade was led by the police chief driving his jeep slowly down the narrow street stopping to shake hands with any child her saw on the way. The parade took the path past the local tabac/bar where the morning beer was flowing to kick off this national day.

We took time later to visit the very famous and interesting St Julien cathedral. Very interesting stonework and frescos – the stone being from the local volcanic rock.

We pushed on following the beautiful l’Allier River valley – beautiful towns hanging off outcrops of volcanic rock, others on old lava flows. We stopped by the river for lunch near the village of Villeneuve d’Allier for lunch – a great breeze to keep it all cool!

Followed the river and then the road to Le Puy en Velay. What a magnificent entry to a town. The views of the old town is stunning. Our entry to the town was via a hill over looking the valley . we must have stopped three or four times to take in the vista of whole valley. The three main volcanic outcrops rose above the valley floor and were capped by medieval churches and other buildings.

We explored the old city, climbed more alleyways and staircases! Every where there was another old part to explore. Later we gathered with the towns folk for their Bastille Day parade – and the French reconfirmed our previous thoughts that you can hold important ceremonies without all the over organising.

The official party emerged from the town centre, being led by a brass band from the small streets where everyone was milling – no-one to tell them to get out of the way! The mayor, along with the military dignitaries, all had to shuffle through the people to walk to their destination to receive the parade. Then came the official parade – and again there was no crowd control – the band came, followed by the services with army personnel carrying bayoneted-rifles nearly cutting faces as they passed. It would never be allowed in Oz – Mark Webber may be right about Oz being a nanny state!

We waited for the fireworks - these can;t get going until after sun down – 10.30 pm! The back drop of the city lends itself well to a fireworks display.

An interesting day! To Coubon Aire for sleep – well done TomTom!

Day 55 Tuesday 13^th July:

A very early rubbish collection this morning – not far from the Aire. The French have this very sophisticated recycling programme right across the country. Series of very large bins are located at central points in the cities, towns, and in the contry. The locals all appear to use these religiously – separating different items for the correct bins.

Left for Aurillac – stopped for WiFi but couldn’t get on line. Stopped at the market in Vic-sur-Cere on the way to Aurillac – a typical French weekday market – fruit, veggies, fish, bread and some clothes stalls.

Made our way to St Flour (picture top left) for lunch in the park. Toured this “100 Beau Cites” during the afternoon – the town is sitting on a rocky outcrop but with very different coloured dark stone in the buildings.

We had climbed a considerable height sins Figeac – now entering The Central Massif of the Auvergne. The scenery was stunning – valleys, high plateaus, forested hills etc.

After St Flour we followed the signs to the Garabit Viaduct – one incredible piece of engineering in the 19^th century. This was completed in 1860s for the rail connection north and south France. We then hopped on the motorway to take us to the Massiac Aire for the evening.

After a few wines we took ourselves along to the local park to be involved in some local cultural – poety reading, prose reading and a guitarist. We didn’t understand the words but the passion and intensity was interesting to note. Only a small gathering but obviously a very dedicated group.

NOTE: On route to Massiac via the motorway at one point called “Col de la Fageolle” just north of St Flour, we had climbed to 1107 metres above sea level. This is over 1 km - felt like you were on top of the world!

Day 54 Monday 12^th July:

Ventured on a long trip today – 68 km to Figeac! Another medieval town which is now the centre of the region, as it was when the abbey was founded and the merchants built their fine homes. It rained during the town tour – B took a fall on the smooth wet cobble stones. The town was certainly worth a visit.

Had lunch by the river and then moved on to Sansac-de-Marmiesse for the evening. Another big day – perhaps 100km today!

Day 53 Sunday 11^th July:

Woke this morning to a foggy and over cast morning – but I think the weather gods were just playing with us, but it was still 23oC! We set off for Sarlat via Monfort and the “Cingle de Montfort”, a very spectacular village. Drove on to Sarlat, shopped, Skyped and found a cool place to park.

We needed to leave as we had run out of shade. We stopped at the Dordogne River at Grolejac to cool off in the water and to have a read in the shade of the trees.

Later we drove on to Gourdan to the Aire – a quiet spot with services just near the town square. In the cool of the evening we walked the old town, the church square and the ramparts – a beautiful view over the forest, farms and hills of the Dordogne. We then joined many others at the tabac/Bar to see the World Cup Final. Home by 11.30 pm – still hot.

Day 52 Saturday 10^th July:

We followed directions to “Cingle de Trmolat” but somehow lost the photo opportunity! Drove on to Cadouin, Le Buisson, Saint Cryprien and Beynac – lunch in the shade at Vezac. The two towering fortresses (Beynac and Castlenaud) face one another alonge this section of the Dordogne. Many medieval movies have been shot in this area.

After another two fortresses we decided on Domme (pictured above) for our stop after passing La Roque Gogeac where there was no shade.

Domme is a beautiful medieval village founded in the 1200s and built on a high cliff overlooking the Dordogne River and plains. The setting provided spectacular vistas as well as being a popular tourist/restaurant area.

Still very hot tonight – 28.5 oC at 9.30 pm. Mad text – Cats beat the Hawks by 2 points – the important things in life!

Day 51 Friday 9^th July:

The storm forecasted for overnight didn’t eventuate, but we did have a rock band playing on the river bank next to us late into the night. A good night sleep was had with the morning presenting an overcast sky.

A prehistoric day today! We will be tracing the River Vezere through the where man has dwelt for the past 200 centuries! You can understand why Neanderthal, or whoever, arrived here and decided not to leave – caves, water, good soil, rich resources – everything required to sustain a large population group.

Many stops, photos, sites etc before arriving at Les Eyzies-de-Taya-Sireuit for lunch. We visited “Roque Saint Christophe” cliff site, then to the troglodyte village La Madeleine, and then Tursac where we were most impressed with the “Roc de Cazelle”. All very interesting and impressive – the time span on habitation is staggering.

The very picturesque but narrow road this morning nearly jolted us out of our complacency! On a corner a large passenger bus took most of our road, but “skilful driving “ , our front RHS wheel off the verge and our right front corner millimetres from a rock face, danger and damage was averted. The “brown Chords” were nearly needed but all remained cool in the crisis. We needed to reverse our, as did the car behind. It maybe the price we have to pay in venturing out onto smaller scenic routes.

This afternoon we stopped off at Limenil, the point at which the Vezere River runs into the Dordogne River. We walked to the hilltop village, looked at the famous garden at the top of the ramparts and then mossied back down to the river for a wade. So lovely and refreshing. We looked at staying the night but there was very little shade so we moved on to Tremolat to the Aire. There was shade here so we called into play the 4.00 pm rule and decided to stay.

Day 50 Thursday 8^th July:

Pleased to hear from Maddie this morning – she had quite a flight back from Tassie – and that she was feeling much better.

Left for Montignac – the village of the famous Lascaux cave art, but now only copies to view. Had lunch and explored this ancient town that had just been celebrating its history from prehistoric times ’till today. The town was decked out with large colourful flower rosettes , a very effective decoration.

We moved on further into the Dordogne to the quieter village on St Leon-sur-Vezere situated by the river - and needed to be today because it has been so hot – 33 oC at 6 pm with no breeze. Iced drinks were the order of the night. When it cooled a little we took a walk through the village and looked at another 12thC church, chateau and quaint alleyways and streets. Wading in the river was very much the highlight!

Map 1: London to Paris

Map 2: Paris to Perigueux

Day 49 Wednesday 7^th July:

Away at a leisurely hour - 9.30 am. First stop today was at Excideuil where we sought out the old centre, the church and the chateau. The chateau has over the years been the centre of many battles. – being situated between Limoges and Perigueux - Richard the Lionheart attempted to siege the chateau on three different occasions but failed; it changed hands during the Hundred Years War (1300s) with England; and also changed hands more times during the French Religious Wars (1500s). Today it has been restored as it sits on of the high land overlooking the surrounding country-side.

We moved on to Perigueux for lunch. Spent the afternoon sheltering from the hot sun, reading and generally catching up.

After dinner we took ourselves into the old part of town to the evening market. This was a beautiful time to be out and about. The old medieval part of the city was as good as any we have seen with small alleyways and rustic building. There were a large number of people out, and the soccer semi between Germany and Spain was being watched by many in cafes and homes. The market was different from what we had seen in many other places, much more local crafts and different items on display.

Still very hot when we returned home – the Spaniards next to us were on edge – the game was in extra time at nil all and he was indicating his heart was bursting from his chest. By “game won” time he was over to us in a great stage of excitement. Well done Spain.

Day 48 Tuesday 6^th July:

In search of Richard the Lionheart today! Headed off towards Chalus the village where Richard was killed during the siege of Chalus Chateau on 4^th April 1199. While he was away fighting in the Crusade the French noblemen prepared their fortifications for their revolt when he returned. His mother, Eleanor of Aquitaine, tried to hold it all together for him while he was away but without much luck. Richard returned and attempted to win back the lands but failed, being killed at Chalus. Maybe where we had our morning coffee he laid dying!

We arrived at St Yrieix-la-Perche before lunch. This town has been the centre of the pottery trade in France for hundreds of years; it is also listed as one of the top 100 “Plus Beaux Detours de France”. It has a lovely presentation with a 12^thC Romanesque church and a keep of great historical importance – I failed to see this side of it though!

We didn’t leave until late in the afternoon – the Aire was not to the normal French standard! Made our way down the road a little to the next Aire at Lanouaille which was very pleasant.

Helene cooked up her red and black currents picked at Oradour –sur-Glane – they smelt delicious.

Another warm day - around 27oC but with a cooling breeze blowing.

Day 47 Monday 5^th July

Oradour-sur-Glane today! The martyrs village, where 642 villagers were rounded up by the Nazis and then slaughtered. The village was burnt and it has now been left as a monument and a reminder of the horrors of war. “He who does not know history will often repeat history.” It is truly an eerie place. The women and children were ushered into the church and there, were shot and burnt. A place we will not forget for a long time.

We later set off for St Junien. Shop, email, blog and an Aire on our list. We actually ended up in St Laurent-sur-Gorre – a small village south of St Junien, on the banksof a river. Very pretty. We noticed as we drove into the village that the streets were littered with life size rag-dolls dressed in different costumes.

Day 46 Sunday 4^th July:

Sunday morning in Vivonne is very active – the boulangere is trading at a very early hour, runners are congregating in the square but the vanners all seem to be fast asleep. I made my way to the boulangerie for our baguette, having to queue with many of the villagers – what a lovely shop, stacked to the ceiling with breads, and the display cabinets were stocked with the most delectable array of pastries and cakes you could imagine.

Our route today took us through Gencay, Pressac, Confolens and stopping at Oradour-sur-Glane for the evening. On our way we took some very scenic detours – probably experiencing one of our longest travelling days for a few weeks – 98kms!

Oradour-sur-Gland is the “martyr village” still preserved as it was the day the Nazis SS troops killed over 600 villagers, even though the war was over in this part of France by August 1944. We will be visiting the site tomorrow.

We are stopping at an Aire in the modern part of the town- very well equipped and popular – over 20 vans here and it is only 5.00pm – and more are rolling in as I write!

Day 45 Saturday 3^rd July:

Today we finally made it to Poitiers by lunch time. We parked and had lunch on top of the city ramparts opposite the “Parc de Blossac” which overlooks the river, and being a short distance from the centre of the town.

A little cooler today but it was starting to warm-up again during the afternoon. We took all afternoon to wander the Poitiers. Helene was very interested in the wedding that took place while we were checking out the Notre Dame Church. We had earlier seen the same wedding party at the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall). The civil and the religious ceremonies must be very separate and mandatory in France. Later we went to the 12^th C Cathedral of St Piere and the 4^thC Baptistery of St Jean. Christianity certainly featured in Gaul/France from a very early time.

We walked back through the Parc de Blossac to the van, and left Poitiers by 6.30 pm – the 4 o’clock rule was forgotten for the day!

Set TT for an Aire in Vivonne – arrived and found a lovely spot with about 8 other vans. We parked near the canal in the centre of the village. Had a few drinks, dinner and walk around the village and in bed by 10.30 – an early night for a change!

Day 44 Friday 2^nd July

There doesn’t appear to be any wifi in Chauvigny! Went to the town centre today to try to contact Maddie but only one place had any public access – where’s Macca’s when you want it! Back to camp for further R’n R.

Weather a little cooler at times today – 28oC! The campsite proprietor has just informed us that we are to wind in the awning etc because there is a gale force weather warning being circulated. We prepared our van for the storm but when it came it was all over within 20 mins – a few strong winds and some rain. It arrived at about 6.30 pm but only lasted 20 minutes. It was a relief to see the temperature drop after what we had had over the past week or so.

After dinner we had a very interesting and pleasant evening with John and Jenny, from Frankfurt, and Ian and Margaret from the Scottish borders. Home to bed by 1.00 am!

Day 43 Thursday 1^st July:

A rest day today – well partially. Sorry no Poitiers today either! We decided to go to the “medieval cite” early before it became too hot. Chauvigny is the only medieval city in Europe to have four chateaux making up the old part of the hill-top fortification. Again, very interesting, and we had peace and quiet to ponder the area before the other tourists awoke and descended upon the area. As it became hotter we headed back to the campsite to get on with our domestics – washing and a little cleaning.

Day 42 Wednesday 30^th June :

Will we make it today? Woke to the sounds of the dawn chorus and the chimes of the village church bell. Spent some time early in the morning sitting atop the cliff overlooking the village of Angles sur-l’Anglin. Very peaceful – a man fly-fishing near the bridge until some of the village youth turn-up for a swim.

Left for St Sevan after breakfast. Another delightful town with a picturesque 12^th century Abbey and bridge. Moved onto Montmorillon for lunch – noted for its Notre-Dame cathedral, plus other bits and pieces – it all seems to be a bit ho-hum today – must be a little tired today.

Headed towards Lussac-les-Chateau where we met another English couple now living in France and they suggested we go to Chauvigny. The UK/French couple were telling us about them buying and then renovating an old French farmhouse. They were saying taxes and health insurance take about 35% of wages and that houses were taxed on the number of fixed bedrooms. They went on to say that it was very expensive for English people in France now because of the exchange rate plus the price of items had increased.

We booked into the campsite at Chauvigny. On the way we passed nuclear power station on the Vienne River.

The campsite is within walking distance of the old town and the city centre.

Still very hot late into the evening – the new fan is being put to good use.

Had a drink with Keith and Maureen – a Yorkshire couple- Maureen a little under the weather but Keith made sense.

Day 41 Tuesday 29^th June :

Another great Aire – so quite overnight – but a little de ja vu when the automatic sprinklers came on at 4.00 am. This happened last year at Jabiru and at Kununurra.

Still heading for Poitiers today! Set TT for Le Grand Pressigny. Stopped to buy our baguettes but discovered a village with an impressive chateau, ramparts and a “four banal” or medieval oven. This four banal was provided by the count for the villagers who were obliged to cook their bread in this oven for a fee or banality! The very impressive ruined tower of the chateau still remained even after the destruction during the revolution. An effort was in progress to r

estore the chateau and ramparts with a 8 million Euro works program.

Chaumussay seemed to be the destination for lunch – stopped by a river and had lunch on a green field and then filled with “eau portable”. We proceeded to Boussay when we came across yet another chateau, this one derelict but we were able to walk the grounds. Very impressive moated chateau. The French country side is dotted with these relics at every turn.

Seeing it was getting on in the afternoon we started to look out for a suitable Aire, two were not suitable because there was no shade, on our way to the third we came across Angles sur L’Anglin – what a find – stunning – some English folk here said that it was voted one of the most scenic villages in France. It is absolutely stunning. Ticks all the boxes, river, chateau and ramparts on the high ground, cute houses, flower boxes everywhere, small allies – its got the lot.

We drove into the parking area overlooking the river and decided this is our resting place for the night.

Still very hot but with a cooling breeze. A wine with some ice evened out the temperature a little .. and we still haven’t made it to Poitiers!