Day 40 Monday 28^th June:

Much cooler this morning but there is a feel about the air that it could get very hot quickly! Street cleaner did a solo performance this morning – up ‘n down x 10 where we camped! We aimed for a slow day today. We needed to shop before we left Amboise – another town with chateau, ramparts etc . Bought a fan for 9 Euros for when we are in campsites and it gets very hot.

It was interesting to see the large number of bread makers in th

e large electrical stores. The French passion for bread, baguettes of all different shapes and sizes, translate into a large home market for bread makers.

Every morning from very early to after mid-day you see the French, all shapes and sizes, walking away from the Boulangerie with their baguettes.

Today has been a slow day. We had lunch at Chenonceaus, but couldn’t take another chateau tour. We have ended up just south of Amboise at Loches, a very pleasant French village, and with its chateau, ramparts and narrow old streets.

It was interesting to note that two trains were over-nighting here. For 22 Euros you could get to Paris in 2 hours 15 minutes changing at Tours. We had another very pleasant Aire to stay at overlooking a small creek and much greenery.

Day 39 Sunday 27^th June:

The weather has really been kind to us – after all it is summer. Left our “overnight” by 9.20 am and by 9.30 am we had run into a large Sunday market in Savonnieres. This market had a huge variety of gear – householders, dealers etc all were touting their wares. Many French items not found in Australia could be bought . Lucky to escape by 11.30 am.

Drove onto Tours where we checked email etc – something we had not done for a few days. Found Steve and Anne still awake in Oz – great to talk with them. Had lunch in Tours – just another large French city without much attraction. A motor show was on in the centre of the town so we moved on pretty quickly. It must have been the least impressive of the bigger cities we have been to in France.

Finally had lunch in Vouray, just outside Tours, and then onto Montlouis-sur-Loire for the evening. Still very hot! Stopped here for a while and then decided to move onto Amboise – only 10km further on - so as to look at the town in the cool of the evening. Still very hot – 30 0C at 11.00 pm!

Day 38 Saturday 26^th June:

18.6 degrees C this morning – must be in for another hot day. Egg’s and bacon for breakfast. Walk to the Chateau de Azay Le Rideau but came across the town market, bought some fruit. Then off to the chateau – very picturesque. Needed to be away so we set TT for Langeais to view a second recommended chateau. Chateua Langeais was in the centre of the village, providing a very impressive setting for the village. Had a coffee before moving on to Villandry – a few kms down the road.

Lunch just outside the chateau grounds in Villandry in the shade of some beautiful elms. After lunch we took a visit to the chateau – it came highly recommended by a French couple – and it didn’t disappoint. Where we had become a little de-sensitised by chateaus, walled-cities, medieval town and churches etc; this cut through all that. It was stunning by all standards. Perhaps we will be reluctant to go through other chateaus in the future because of Chateau Villandry ... but we are heading for Ambois and Chenconeau ... Villandry was visually stunning The desighn of the chateau and gardens is perhaps the best that had been achieved over the centuries. From every angle, inside and outside, your senses were challenged by the design – lettuces inside box-hedge – but it works.

It was approaching 4 pm so we left for a few Kms up the Loire for our Aire – a beautiful spot under the shade of large elm trees .

Day 37 Friday 25^th June:

Pinching ourselves – another beautiful day promising. The French Aires de camping are areas set aside for mobile homes by towns across France. Some Aires only cater for six or so van, while others will take many more. Some of the locations are stunning eg on the banks of rivers, overlooking chateaus; others though can be quite ordinary, in the middle of a town with trucks thundering past at night! But you quickly learn to be selective. All these locations have facilities to take on drinking water, empty grey-water and loos, plus rubbish bins. Some you may have to pay 2 Euros for 100l of water while others it is free.

In more popular locations eg in Azay Le Rideau, the 4.00 pm rule applies ie you need to be looking for an Aire at this time otherwise you may have to look at the next one along the way. By arriving around 4 pm allows you to relax – even more, read, write a blog! eat and drink, and then in the cool of the evening you have the opportunity to explore the village in the quite time of the day.

More countries ought to take a leaf out of the French book on hospitality.

Back to the story of the day! Left for Chinon and finally arrived by mid-morning and gained a great parking spot under trees by the river next to the Place de Jean d’Arc. From here we explored the town for the rest of the day before heading for Azay Le Rideau by 4.00pm. Chinon was the preferred residence of the early Plantagenet kings, Henry II etc, so a medieval village developed around the chateau. This town remained intact until the present day after falling into disrepair after 15^th century. Very picturesque! Left for Azay le Rideau.

We parked next to a Welsh couple – “You’ve got a Welsh born PM”, were his words of greeting. They live in France and were able to give us much valuable information. They had sat-TV and Lytton Hewitt was on the verge of winning his third round match at Wimbledon – but did the Cats win last night against St Kilda.

Very hot afternoon, did the washing , had a wine, dinner, and then went for a walk and a beer in Azay Le Rideau. Back to the van by 11.00 just as the night sky was darkening.

Day 36 Thursday 24^th June

“Julia is the new PM” -so a text from Maddie announces – she sounded excited being the first female PM of Australia. All this as we head-off for another beautiful day exploring the Loire valley. Drove to Saumur to Skype maddie. Got all the “goss” on what was happening at home, as well as email etc. Shopping day too – need to replenish supplies.

In the afternoon we followed the Loire to a small village of Turquaint. Turquaint has many troglodyte homes built into rocks with extemsions built outside the cliff face. Turguaint is about 20km away from Chinon, where we were heading three days ago!,

We have started to settle into a pattern where we find an Aire soon after 4.00pm have a read and a drink, cook dinner, claen-up and then explore the village for a few hours in the cool of the evening. Turquaint is partially made up of houses that emerge from the limestone cliff. Quaint little alley-ways and an old 13^th century church.

Thirteen vans took advantage of this great Aire. France, you have done it again!

Day 35 Wednesday 23^rd June

Woke to a beautiful sunny morning by the Loire. Showered, ate and were ready for the day. A little Frenchman came ‘round selling veggies etc. We mad a last minute decision to go to the Troglodyte area of the Loire. First stop was Deneze –sans- Doue to view the Cave Sculptures from the 13^th and 14^th century – Protestant v Catholics - but both carved the satirical sculptures for their common use as a church. This was very dangerous for them if they had have been caught.

We then visited the village of Forges for the troglodyte underground village. Very extensive systems of dugout rooms underground where families lived . If they couldn’t afford to build then it was very cheap to dig the soft limestone and create their home and village underground. If a new bay arrived then they would just dig another room. Had lunch with David and Sue.

To continue with the Troglodyte theme, in the afternoon we visited an ancient farm and Troglodyte dwellings at Rochemenier. This very extensive complex of underground homes and farmyards have been in existence since the 13^th century. By 4.00 pm we had nearly been “trogged out”!

At this stage we set TT for the Aire in Montreuil-Ballay and he led us to an Aire next to a river with a beautiful chateau towering over the cliff behind us. What an absolute picture!

Had dinner by 8.30 pm and then walked the old town until 10.30pm. (Australia had just won the soccer – so a local told us!) back to the van where six other vanners were enjoying this very special place.

Day 34 Tuesday 22^nd June

When we woke this morning we immediately thought that we were in the wrong place!! The folks seemed friendly but it appeared to be a gypsy camp – central community tent, music ove a PA and everyone seeming to know one another except us, and also knowing that we had drifted into a place that they we knew we ought not be in! No problems though, but we moved off calmly but without wasting much time.

We returned to the parking area in Angers to have breakfast and continue our exploration of the city. We wandered over the road to the 12th century St Jean Hospital to view Jean Lurcat and Contemporary Tapestry Museum. We marvelled at the size of each tapestry and the themes. An interesting take of the French! The 17^th century orphanage housed the Contempoary tapestry Museum. The use these old buildings are being put to is fantastic without changing the integrity of the buildings.

Caught “our” Petit Train back across the Maine River to spend the rest of the day at the magnificent Chateau and the viewing of the very famous 14^th century tapestry of the Apocalypses – this set of tapestries are considered national treasures in France. Also, fascinated by the “hanging gardens” on top of the ramparts growing 14^th century plants that are

depicted in the tapestry. (Someone gathered a few herbs for the evening meal from this garden!!!!) Louis, eat your heart out!

Returned to the van , had a very late lunch and then headed to the Loire in the direction of Saumur, stopping at an Aire at Canault. We travelled next to the Loire for 40 Km – very scenic villages dotted along the river. Stopped by 5.00 pm – has to be a first!

Met an English couple, Sue and David, from Birmingham, at Canault. Went for a drink but the bar was closing as we walked in! So we continued to walk the village and came across the large village church where the light through the windows above the front door shone directly on the altar at 8.00 on June 21^st – it was shortly after 8 on the 22^nd June and we could see the lighting effect it had. Looked at a few rock houses and then returned to the van for the night.